We’ve spent the last few weeks—and months—getting the boat ready for the 2025 sailing season. After moving up from the south coast, swapping out the main sail, and tackling the usual winter maintenance, we were more than ready for some sunshine and a bit of proper sailing. I’ll admit, I felt a bit nervous heading out this time. In the past six months, we’d only moved the boat twice: once when it first arrived and again for its winter lift. Not exactly confidence-boosting!
Even though I powerboated here as a kid, I’d become quite comfortable on the south coast. I knew the harbours, the bays, where to anchor for a good night’s sleep regardless of the weather. Up here? Not so much. I spent most of the winter flipping through Cruising Anglesey and Adjoining Waters and, to be honest, it scared me half to death. Add to that the eerie quiet of winter marinas—barely a boat on the move—and it all felt very different to the hustle of weekends on the Hamble.
Provisioned and Ready
April half term finally arrived with a glorious stretch of sunshine. We had a couple of weeks, so for once, no pressure. We got to the boat on Saturday, did the usual provisioning, and waited for Sunday’s wind shift to fit the shiny new mainsail. It’s a beauty, and we couldn’t wait to see how she performed.
We were all set to go Monday morning. It was an early one—we needed to refuel, and I wanted to catch high water so we’d have slack tide in the river and then a gentle push out of the estuary. The trip started beautifully. Seeing Deganwy from the water was refreshing—new views of the houses, the beach, Sue’s Beach Hut (definitely worth a stop!), and the towering Great Orme in the distance. We were at the fairway buoy in about 35 minutes (surely it used to take longer?) and another 40 minutes later, we were watching seabirds swarm around Puffin Island.
Down the Menai
With light winds and a favourable forecast, we decided to head down the Menai Strait and spend some time around Abermenai or Pilot’s Cove. Timing was key—we wanted to pass through The Swellies at slack water, which meant either a late evening push (two hours before HW Liverpool) or an early morning start.
As we motored down the straits, we passed Beaumaris and the Bangor Pier. Early April meant a bit more activity—kayakers, a few yachts, and that wonderful buzz that comes with the season’s first real burst of sun. We noticed a lack of visitor moorings and started thinking about anchoring options. Near Bangor Pier, we saw a few empty moorings, some with numbers, others with boat names. One was definitely someone’s private spot—confirmed when we spotted frantic arm-waving from a nearby house! We gave that one a miss and found a comfortable gap in the field to drop anchor. Not ideal anchoring near moorings, as the seabed can be a mess of old tackle, but it felt safe enough.
We spent the afternoon relaxing onboard, took Nell ashore for a beach walk at low tide, and enjoyed a peaceful evening on the hook.
Through the Swellies
Tuesday morning, the alarm went off at 6:45am. We needed to be near the Menai Suspension Bridge by 8am. After a quick run ashore with Nell, we got the boat prepped and headed off. Just as we neared the bridge, we spotted another yacht making its way through—and out of nowhere, an ex-lifeboat was following us. Always reassuring when someone else is on the same schedule!
The Swellies are famous—and rightly so. A narrow, rocky stretch where tidal currents from both ends of the island collide, they can run at 5 knots on neaps and up to 8 on springs! Add some overhanging rocks, swirling eddies, and limited room to manoeuvre, and you’ve got a spot that demands respect. (The Caernarfon Harbour Trust website has great info if you’re curious: caernarfonharbour.org.uk)
Still, in the right conditions, it’s a beautiful stretch. Once through, we cruised past the bridges and headed down towards Port Dinorwic. This end of the strait is much shallower—even in the channel—so we kept a close eye on the charts. The tide gave us a welcome boost as we made our way towards Abermenai Point.
A Quiet Anchorage
Approaching The Narrows, just before the Caernarfon Bar, we spotted some white water ahead. With Catherine still snoozing, we decided to stop and anchor at Abermenai instead. Best decision we made. We spent a couple of nights there—three boats in total, beach all to ourselves. It was bliss. Another boat joined us on the 2nd day, turns out they were from the Conwy River.
Two days later, we all made the return trip back through The Swellies. The other yacht continued all the way to Conwy—good to know it’s doable on one tide! The lifeboat vanished again (as mysteriously as it arrived), and we stopped in The Pool off Beaumaris.
It’s an interesting anchorage—looks like open sea, but when the tide goes out, you’re surrounded by miles of sand. From there, it’s a 2.5-mile to the opposite shore—just sand and more sand. We made the journey for ice cream (worth it) and then headed back to the marina before the weather turned.
Reflections
All in all, a brilliant trip. It felt amazing to be back at anchor, soaking up the sunshine and getting into the rhythm of boat life again. I relaxed more after the first day or two, though I’m still not 100% comfortable with the area. Back on the south coast, I always knew I could tuck back in somewhere if the weather shifted. Here, once you leave the river, you’re committed. Still, for an April cruise, this was easily the best we’ve had in years.
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